how to replace a toilet to tile bathroom floor?

February 22, 2010 by admin · 6 Comments
Filed under: Do It Yourself (DIY) 
bathroom
Ty asked:

We’re planning to put ceramic tile in our bathroom, but the cement backer board and the ceramic tile will raise our floor just under 3/4 inch. Is this going to be a problem when we go to replace the toilet (will the sewer drain go high enough)? Also, how would you make it so that the door can open freely (It has exactly 3/4 inch extra room now, so this might not be an issue)? Sand the bottom of the door?
We haven’t removed the toilet yet or anything. I thought I would hammer out this question before doing that.

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Comments

6 Responses to “how to replace a toilet to tile bathroom floor?”
  1. rob s says:

    I run into this all the time tiling.. I most often use a double wax rings w/ the rubber sleeve..You ll have to get the 3 inch bolts to reattach the stool..One trick to help ya… I buy an extra set of nuts and washers and actually tighten the bolt down to the flange in case you bump the bolt when resetting the stool.
    The door may or may not need cutting off wait and see GL rob s

  2. woodtick314 says:

    Turn off the water valve behind the toilet, and flush to remove as much water as possible from the toilet. Remove the caps at the base of the toilet on each side and remove the nuts from the bolts. You may need to straddle the toilet and rock it back and forth to break the seal of the wax ring. Lift the toilet out of the way and set on cardboard or plastic. Stuff a rag in the drain to keep sewer gas from coming out. Scrape the wax off of the flange with a putty knife. Reinstallation is the reverse. You may need longer bolts and an extra thick wax ring due th the new floor height.

    As far as the door goes, it will need to be cut. Measure 1/2 up on each side, then use a straightedge to draw a line. Use a sharp utility knife and score the line. This will keep the veneer from tearing out. Use a circular saw and cut the line. That should give you plenty of clearance. Hope this helps. woodtick314

  3. poobah says:

    There are extra large wax ring seals that are made for that situation. Or you can unscrew the existing flange and shim it up to the new floor level. Only be sure that the sewer pipe that it is connected to has enough play in it to move up that 3/4″. To remove a toilet, first empty all the water. Do this by turning off and disconnecting the supply and flushing the tank. Hold the flush valve until as much water as possible is out then using a sponge remove the rest. Use a cup to get most of the water out of the bowl and again use a sponge for the rest. There will be some water retained in the toilet trap so when you remove the whole unit be careful not to tip it. Just unbolt it from the flange and carefully break the wax seal by pulling up and rocking the bowl. poobah

  4. sensible_man says:

    Go to a Home Center and purchase a flange extender that is the thickness needed to bring it up to floor level. They come in various thicknesses. Make sure you screw it/them down to the floor through the holes in the original flange. Using double wax seals is a great way to clog up your drain pipe since they can slide while installing the toilet. You can sand or cut a bit off the bottom of the door. sensible_man

  5. David B says:

    Your best bet would be to install a closet flange extension. They are made for this very thing. As far as the door, using a circular saw with a straight edge clamped to the door will be cleaner and faster than sanding, if you need to raise the door edge. David B

  6. David says:

    Toilet - You can buy a flange extender that fits into the existing flange and raises it up enough to seat the toilet… then use the regular wax ring and johnny bolts.

    Door - depending on how much you need to remove, sand, plane or saw, in that order. If you saw, score the cut line with a sharp blade first to prevent splintering when you saw. David

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